Originating in the Mediterranean, black rice is a very popular dish and its exact origin is disputed by the fishermen of Alicante, Tarragona and the Costa Brava, in Spain. It is dry rice cooked with the meat and ink of squid or cuttlefish. Both these cephalopods are tender, succulent and slippery and the ink they spray out to hide from their attackers gives the rice such a dark and somewhat mysterious tone, even though other fisherman say that its colour comes from patiently browning the onion. There are rock fish in its stock and the secret of this recipe lies in its lightly fried vegetables and chopped ingredients. Served with alioli (garlic mayonnaise) and white wine, it lights up the table and the guests.